Caluche, close to our hotels, plays thing cool, a lot cooler than certain hype-hungry restaurants we could mention. For example, they don’t have a website, you can’t book online, and even their Instagram page is dead as a dodo since September 2023.

Often times, this would not be a good sign, but in the case of Caluche it simply means that they aren’t interested in your likes – they just came here to chew bubble gum and offer great food, and they’re all out of bubble gum…

In a refreshing change to Parisian restaurants who build their reputation on smart-looking photos rather than good food, Caluche is deliberately down-to-earth, and also quite masculine, from the owner Benjamin Fourty (who has over fifteen years experience in the trade) to the chef Benjamin Augier de Moussac, by way of the waiting staff who are all very capable and kind.

Upon arrival, you get an immediate sense that cuisine is something they take very seriously, wine even more so. This explains why their smart wine cellar is visible to all, like a quiet boast that they have the oh so good stuff, in abundance.

Split into one small room and a corner with a couple more tables, the restaurant is neither too big nor too small, with a very pleasant terrace on two sides and well situated slightly off the main drag of rue Mouffetard. With simple decor – brown and other neutral tones, one painting and one photo on the walls – there’s a nostalgic vibe that includes a classic zinc bar, formica tables and a mosaic tiled floor. French cuisine and cool confidence are in full effect.

Caluche offers a three-course fixed price lunch menu for 33€, which isn’t outrageous for the area. This includes a large choice of starters, a short list of main dishes and just two desserts, although they can be replaced by a cheese dish according to taste.

We started with an agreeably sharp ajo blanc – a gazpacho made with garlic and almonds – well-dosed in vinegar and accompanied by oregano croutons, and for the second starter some grilled radiccio slices with a Caesar sauce and large shavings of parmesan, an unusual ensemble, both simply and prettily presented and sporting a pleasing bitterness with much crunch and crunchiness.

For the mains dishes, we chose:

– the gnocchi with creamed peppers, spinach shoots and parmesan, served strangely lukewarm and not as melt-in-the-mouth as we might have hoped, but saved by the grilled cheese croutons and contrast of bitter spinach with the sugary peppers, and

— the pollack served with white beans known as coco de Paimpol and glasswort, together with a coconut and ginger sauce. Simply presented, the fish was cooked to perfection and the sauce was both subtle and tasty. Just thinking about it again is making our mouths water!

Despite these quite filling dishes we were still game for dessert (indeed we generally are) and each choose one of the two on offer:

— a mirabelle plum clafoutis with unpasteurised cream, and

— a chocolate and fig tart.

The latter was succulent, with lush sweet figs and what tasted like almond paste in the pastry, a very pleasing surprise. As for the clafoutis, it really took us back to homemade desserts with fresh fruits from the garden, with the cream tasting almost whipped. Really something special, both of them.

What a memorable meal we had at Caluche! The room may seem awash with earth tones, and the presentation can appear a little ordinary, but do not be fooled – the food is absolutely great, each dish well balanced and perfectly prepared.

Perhaps next time (because we intend to return) we’ll go for dinner, have them choose a great glass of win to accompany things and finish off with a warming calvados!

And of course, if you’re in the area on a weekday outside of eating hours, you can still pop by and enjoy a coffee or glass of wine (depending on the time of day) as Caluche is open from early morn until fashionably late. Put it on your list of things not to miss!

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Caluche (here) is open weekdays inly from 9am – midnight. Lunch served from midday – 1.30pm, and dinner from 7.30-9.30pm

Bookings only accepted in person or by telephone: 01 45 87 89 40

No website / No Facebook page / Instagram (dead since September 2023)

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Une publication partagée par Caluche (@caluche_cafe_cave)