If you spent any amount in Paris, you’ll almost certainly have seen the large green column at the centre of place de la Bastille and its golden sculpture symbolising freedom (after the storming of the Bastille). However, it’s only recently, since October 2021, that visits of the monument – officially known as the July Column – have been made possible.

These are conducted in small groups, with only four visits a week (two each day on weekends) and while it’s unfortunately not possible to climb up to the top of the 50-metre high structure (for security reasons) there’s still a lot of very interesting history to learn and unusual sights to see, including a view of the canal that runs directly underneath the column, and the tombs of both the 504 people who died in the French Revolution of 1830 and the 196 killed in the 1848 Revolution 😳

It’s a rare pleasure to be able to visit the Bastille column – called the July column in commemoration of the three-day revolution of July 1830 – as the number of visits is limited, and the number of people for each visit also. Make sure you book well in advance!

You should also know that the visit doesn’t start at the column itself but in the courtyard of a grand building nearby called the Hôtel de Sully (another monument worth visiting, with a splendid garden!) Some members of our group did not read the details of the meet-up point and thus missed about an hour of the visit, as there are many buildings you will be told the history of during the short walk to Bastille.

You’ll hear of the storming of the prison, see what remains of it and learn more about the revolutions and unrest in Paris over the years.

After two of three stops along the way, we arrive at place de la Bastille where a plaque on a building notes that here used to be one of the entrances to the prison. There are also markers on the ground showing the perimeter of the fortress, and another plaque with an outline map of the building.

And so, we arrive finally at place de la Bastille!

Obviously a lot here has changed since 1789, but reaching the central column has become a lot easier since the area was remodelled in 2020. Formerly a giant traffic roundabout impossible to cross, it now has a central 11,000m² island closed on one side, 52 extra trees and a large stairway leading down to the port de l’Arsenal and its sweet little gardens.

Anyone can now get up close to the column, but only those who have paid for a guided visit can actually pass through the metal gate and go inside.

It’s almost time to enter this extraordinary place. We now know its history and the projects that were proposed in its place (including the giant elephant!) but some surprises are still in store.

After descending some stone stairs we can admire the curved corridors with mosaic floors and stained glass windows, the small window allowing us to view the Saint-Martin canal which passes directly underneath before arriving at the Port de l’Arsenal (and then the Seine), the marble, the sculpted wall details…

We then go down again to two necropolises in a second basement, containing the remains of the victims of the French revolutions. These rooms are completely without ornamentation, and it’s incredible to think that they are the final resting place for just over 700 people.

And just before the end of the visit, we are invited to go up just a few steps of the staircase that leads to the summit of the column.

Dramatic lighting brings out all the details, and we are surprised to see that every sculpted effigy on the outside of the column can be seen indented in reverse from the inside. What an incredible space, and what a crazy idea!

While moving towards the exit there are still some sweet details to see, and once outside we can admire the names of the revolution victims written on the column. It had never occurred to us that they might be buried below…

If you like the look of this unusual visit (conducted in French as you might imagine), head to the website of the column to book your ticket (mandatory for all participants). The rate is quite reasonable – 13€ for adults, 7€ for concessions (kids from 7-17 years old, the unemployed, and others listed here) with visits offered on Saturdays and Sundays at 2.30 and 4.30pm.

We really enjoyed seeing inside the column, and think you will too!

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The Colonne de Juillet can be booked for visits every weekend

Guided visits start at the Hôtel de Sully (here) on Saturdays and Sundays at 2.30 and 4.30pm

Admission: 13€ / 7€ (online ticket sales here)

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