What? Have we gone mad? Paris the beautiful! Paris the magnifique! And we’re telling you to get out? As a visitor to our fair city, having made the effort to cross the world to see it, you could be excused for asking why we are encouraging you to go and see grimy, grotty old Brussels. It’s a fair question, and one that we are more than ready ready to answer: because it’s got some amazing things to see, and getting there is as simple as going to Versailles (and nearly as quick).

Don’t believe us? Perhaps our very personal mini-guide will help convince you. This way please for an extraordinary day out…

The Hôtels Bruxelles Rive Gauche group? Well, perhaps for a day. After all, if you’ve seen a lot of what you wanted to see in Paris, or it’s not your first time here, a jaunt to Brussels could be exactly what you need. Although it’s close, Brussels is incredibly different, not outwardly beautiful in the effortless way Paris is, but with many hidden splendours. We’ve been exploring the place for the last fifteen years and there’s still plenty for us to see! In those days, the train used to take at least two and a half hours, the train station was an ugly lump and the city seem to be having major work done… everywhere. Nowadays the train gets you there in 1h20min, the station’s been spruced up and… there are still major works being don everywhere! But that’s Brussels for you. At least there are some friendly faces to welcome you when you get off the train…

After having experienced Paris, properly appreciating Brussels takes a little adjustment. It’s a city of numerous paradoxes: modern to the point of destroying beautiful historic art nouveau buildings in order to build grim tower blocks, and yet the city also has countless places where time seems to have stopped since the early 20th century. It can seem grey, wet, cold and drab compared to Paris, and yet Brussels is exceptional – different, for sure, but coyly, dazzling beautiful if only you look.

It would be impossible to tell you everything about Brussels in just one article, but we can still show you some of the things we love and try to explain why is has a special place in our hearts.

Although much of the architecture is ordinary (or even unfortunately ugly), Brussels still has a large number of exceptional Art Nouveau  buildings that have to be seen. Many can be visited, like la maison Horta, but even a simple walk (albeit in selected neighbourhoods) will make it evident that the city was once a very grand place indeed. There are little architectural details everywhere and the size of buildings is smaller, giving the city a more human side than Paris…

In the centre of town, venerable old cafés like the Falstaff and the Cirio (each side of the Bourse building) haven’t changed in decades. Neither have some of the customers…

Visiting the toilets at the Cirio is like travelling back in time, although the Eau de Cologne dispenser no longer works (unfortunately)…

Just over the road there’s and old school Swiss sandwich shop that seems stuck in the fifties, a temple of neon. There’s nothing like it in Paris…

And not far away, at the Grande Place, the architecture is astonishing, Gothic, with northern influences…

The Galeries Royales are just nearby. These are a bit like Paris’ covered galleries, but higher, grander, more chic (and they’ve just been renovated).

Bruxelles is not a flat city and if you walk up a little from the centre you will soon find an areas called le Monts des Arts (a grouping of museums up on a hill) with its mix of old and new, a great view over the city, an old department store converted into a musical instrument museum and more surprises…

The Beaux Arts museum (also known as ‘Bozar‘) is a huge, cavernous building on the hillside with multiple levels and basements, huge exhibition rooms and a well stocked, modern bookshop.

Nearby is a neighbourhood called les Sablons, and the ambience is different again. It’s full of old antique stores, great for quirky old objects and furniture. There are great finds to be had here, and the local church has recently been completely and magnificently restored, as if to prove the area’s wealth and respect for the ancient…

This is where you’ll find Le Perroquet. Legend has it that the period art nouveau fittings were found by accident when building work was being done not so long ago. The wood and stained glass windows are exceptional. Shame that the prices are over and above usual Brussels prices.

On the corner opposite is.. the opposite! A modern bar decorated with felt squares, pixels that make up a drawing, as if you were having a drink in a video game. That’s part of Brussels quirky character too!

And you can keep going uphill if you like, up to the Palais de Justice at the top of the hill. Perhaps you had best take the free lift on rue de l’Epée like we did…

From here, the view over Brussels is impressive. A certain well know monument can bee seen in the distance and the city looks enormous; strange when you think that the population of metropolitan Paris is actually larger than the whole of Belgium!

Luckily, the centre of  Bruxelles is fairly compact, and you can do a lot of things on foot. We returned to the centre of town for a well earned lunch at a restaurant that we’d had our eye on for a number of years; Bonsoir Clara. Unfortunately the décor is a colourful as the dishes are dull…

Night falls quickly here in Winter (Brussels is further north than Paris) and at Xmas the city comes alive! Lights and music are everywhere. They call it ‘Plaisirs d’Hiver‘…

We think of Belgium as an alternative version of France; sometimes confusing or surprising but always stimulating! After numerous visits over a number of years we have a few tips that might help you to make the most of your one-day stay…

1. Go by train! So simple and quick (1h20). There’s a train from Gare du Nord almost every thirty minutes. No bag searches, no forms to fill in for immigration, no changing money… simple! The station in Brussels – Gare du Midi – is about ten minutes walk from the centre of town (see our preferred route here).

Even better, the Bruxelles Day ticket lets you leave Paris at 9am and come back at 8pm for just 40€ return per person from Monday – Thursday (or 80€ in 1st class at the weekend). Cool! Tickets must be reserved on the web at least 7 days beforehand.

2. Don’t go on a Monday! Lots of shops, museums and restaurants will be closed. Bah!

3. Prepare your trip! There’s lots to see, but don’t think you’ll just stumble across it. All you’ll stumble across is huge crowds of tourists and quite a few Starbucks. Get yourself a little guide. You won’t regret it.

4. Dress sensibly! It’s colder in Brussels than in Paris, sometimes much colder! And it rains more! Be prepared so you don’t become a freezing, sodden mess.

5. Don’t hesitate to stop for a hot or cold drink! Café prices are much lower than in Paris, and some cafés have to bee see. So feel free to have a quick rest, get your energy back and set off again as a sight-seeing powerhouse!

6. If you think you speak French, think again! Belgian French is slightly different from, er, French French and the accent may be a little hard to grasp too. When in doubt, speak English; lazy perhaps, but it works.

7. Don’t give up! For every road filled with lifeless grey horros there are tow more round the corner packed full of architectural wonders. Seek them out!

As we said, we could never describe the whole city for you here, and one day is not enough to see all of Brussels, but it’s a good start, and we think you’ll be surprised. You could always come back and sample the parks, flea markets, bars… and discovering the city for yourself is a very satisfying experience..

If you want to see all the photos of our day in Brussels, click here and here to go to the day and night galleries on Flickr. Have fun!